Is a Tarantula Right for Me?

A basic yet comprehensive guide on keeping tarantulas.

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Aphonopelma chalcodes | Arizona Blonde Tarantula

Tarantulas are often misconstrued animals, but with the proper care and husbandry can be fine additions to your home. An important first step to make is how a tarantula fits into your household, and the actions you may need to take to accommodate it. An essential distinction to make is that a tarantula is not a traditional pet, such as a dog, cat, or even a lizard or snake. Tarantulas should be kept exclusively as animals for display, similar to fish. This is to ensure both the safety of yourself, and the animal. Tarantulas do not gain any benefit, whether it be emotional or physical from human handling/contact and abstaining from the practice altogether can greatly diminish the chance for an event such as a bite or an escape. Furthermore, tarantulas do not possess the cognitive ability to bond with their owners. These characteristics all help tarantulas set themselves apart as beautiful animals that are deserving of respect, rather than family pets.

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Basics to Keeping Tarantulas

While keeping tarantulas does have its aforementioned negatives, there are plenty of positives to be had as well. These benefits may not be applicable to all genera and species of tarantulas but will apply to the majority.

Relatively Low Upkeep Costs

Compared to other animals commonly kept in the home, dogs, cats, fish and even on the more exotic end of lizards, frogs, and snakes; tarantulas require very little for upkeep and daily maintenance. They do not require UVB or basking lights like reptiles and certain amphibians. In addition, tarantulas are much easier to keep in apartment complexes or similar places with animal restrictions. Tarantula enclosures typically do not require as much space as other animals, as well as produce no noise, scent, and are incapable of damaging property. as Adult tarantulas can go months without eating (similar to snakes) and this is a result of their extremely slow metabolism. They have very low requirements for oxygen, and while ventilation is a must-have for certain genera, (namely Avicularia and Typhochlaena) tarantulas use up relatively little oxygen for breathing. Tarantulas are also nocturnal, completely motionless during the day, usually only moving in reaction to stimuli. However, do not be fooled, just because a tarantula looks slow does not mean it is slow. Tarantulas are extremely strong and fast, especially during feeding, able to pounce and grapple on prey much larger than themselves. This makes for very entertaining feedings.

Feeding Tarantulas

As aforementioned, tarantulas do not need to feed as frequently as other animals. As slings¹, tarantulas need to eat relatively frequently, often once every two-three day, or slightly longer if they are to eat a larger prey item. Juvenile tarantulas can go much longer, depending on the species which can have fasting periods for months. Adult tarantulas can go as long as years without food. Does this mean you should intentionally starve your tarantula, or neglect it? Absolutely not, if you want your tarantula to stay healthy and to ensure its growth, it is best to feed it on a schedule that works for you. I always offer food to all of my spiders at least once a week unless they are in premolt². I opt to feed my slings pinhead crickets, (or mealworm segments if they are hesitant about live prey). My juvenile terrestrials and fossorials I feed mealworms as they are high in fat, along with occasional large crickets. My juvenile arboreals I opt to feed large crickets exclusively, as I find feeding arboreal spiders mealworms extremely tedious and ineffective (unless it is a heavily webbing species such as Caribena versicolor). For my adult terrestrials, I opt to feed them super worms, as like mealworms they are high in fat. If unavailable, I will feed them 2-3 large crickets. Keep in mind that feeding your spiders larger prey items too frequently will likely result in overfeeding, or a fast before they eat again.

Pamphobeteus sp. platyomma feeding on a superworm.

Tips!

• Always remove uneaten prey from a tarantula enclosure after approximately twenty-four hours. If a tarantula ignores prey as a result of being in the premolt stage, and begins to molt, the tarantula can be harmed or even killed by the uneaten prey. Prioritize removing particularly dangerous prey items when unregulated, such as mealworms and superworms if the tarantula does not show interest in feeding.

• NEVER attempt to "hand-feed" a tarantula!

Water/Humidity Requirements

All living creatures on Earth require water to continue functioning, and tarantulas are no different. Tarantulas require an open water dish (or bottle cap) they will use to drink from. Most tarantulas do completely fine at ambient room humidity, and some tarantulas thrive in desert environments. However, this does not mean you shouldn't provide your desert species with available drinking water, as dehydration is a very real danger. Some species, such as those of the Pamphobeteus and Theraphosa genera, do have specific humidity requirements and or moist substrate. For these species, I often keep one side of the enclosure with wet substrate, and the other half dry so the tarantula can go as they please. In addition, it is wise to funnel moist substrate to the bottom of the enclosure and allow the top layer to dry out. This encourages the tarantula to burrow in order to acquire the moisture. Despite whether the species is commonly kept on dry or moist substrate, it is important to provide slings with adequate hydration. To do this, I simply just let water run down the side of the soil, providing a moist section for the sling to go to. Always make sure the water dish is full, and if the tarantula knocks it over or webs over it, simply replace and refill it.

Tips!

• Always provide proper ventilation to a tarantula's enclosure. All tarantulas require a constant exchange of top ventilation and cross ventilation (some more than others!) Stagnant air kills tarantulas and is it important to have significant airflow. In addition, without proper ventilation your water dish can raise the humidity higher than what the tarantula can handle, creating an unsafe environment.

  • Mold and fungal spores can also develop as a result of excess hydration and lack of ventilation. Most mold is harmless to tarantulas, but it is not worth taking the risk.

• Do not use wet sponges instead of water dishes. Sponges are very quick to get dirty and harbor bacteria that can harm your tarantula. Tarantulas being able to drown is a common myth, and your tarantula will not drown in a shallow water dish.

• If a spider is too small or you are worried about it not getting adequate hydration, lightly spray or drop water droplets onto the web of the tarantula. They will drink from the water droplets.

Finding the Proper Enclosure

Spiders are solitary creatures, and as a result each tarantula will require its own enclosure to live in and thrive. If multiple tarantulas are present in the same enclosure, they will display territorial and defensive behavior, and more likely than not cannibalize other tarantulas, even of the same genus and species. There are rare exceptions to this rule, namely with Monocentropus balfouri, Poecilotheria metallica, and Neoholothele incei exhibiting communal behavior with varying degrees of success. However, in most cases, keep it to one tarantula per enclosure.

Every tarantula enclosure no matter the genera or species requires:

• Adequate space for mobility, the rule of thumb is to provide an enclosure at least two to three times the size of the tarantula.

  • Do not give smaller spiders an enclosure too large for them, as several issues can occur such as small tarantulas escaping through ventilation holes.

• An appropriate amount of substrate. I personally like to use EcoEarth coconut fiber, which is soft and affordable. The amount of substrate differs based on setup and size of the spider, but generally fill the enclosure with substrate to the point where if the spider falls, it will not get hurt. As agile as tarantulas are, they can be clumsy and if your tarantula falls from a substantial height with a large abdomen, it is possible the abdomen can burst, and the spider can die.

  • Do NOT use dirt/substrate from outside, as it can harbor bacteria that can harm your tarantula or encourage mold/fungal growth in the enclosure. In addition, if your home sprays for pesticides, these chemicals will kill your tarantula.

• A hide and/or starter burrow for burrowing species is essential. Tarantulas like their privacy and as a whole prefer dark, cramped spaces., some species (namely Poecilotheria metallica) are light sensitive as well. Providing something such as a cork bark tube or half-tube, or some sort of aquarium decoration for the tarantula to seek refuge.

  • Fossorial and arboreal tarantulas still require hides. You can accomplish this with cork bark tubes for arboreals, and starter burrows for fossorials.

    • Cork bark is an excellent choice for hides, as it is readily available and cost-efficient. Cork bark is also very resistant to molding.

• A water dish or water-bottle cap always filled and in the open for the tarantula to drink from. Dehydration is a common killer of tarantulas, and they will need easy access to still drinking water.

• Proper ventilation. Every tarantula enclosure needs ventilation holes both on the top and sides of the enclosure. Tarantulas with more specific airflow requirements, such as of the genera Avicularia and Typhochlaena will require extra holes on the bottom sides to provide cross ventilation.

• A lid that is either magnet, has a lock, or snaps into place. This ensures that the tarantula cannot leave the enclosure. Whichever method of lid is up to the brand of enclosure you have, along with personal preference.

  • Acrylic enclosures are the best in my opinion, as they provide excellent ventilation, usually feature magnetic or lock-able lids, and look wonderful for display. However, acrylic enclosures can be expensive depending on brand, and some are too small to keep larger species.

    • Critter-keepers are my close second favorite. They are cheap and readily available. They also have very efficient ventilation and come in a variety of sizes, though in my personal opinion lack in vanity.

    • Do NOT use magnet lids or snap lids for larger species (adults that are over around seven inches DLS³). Tarantulas are quite strong, larger tarantulas can push the magnet lids of enclosures off. Instead, opt for a locked lid.

    • Do NOT use wire mesh lids especially for arboreal tarantulas. Tarantula paws can get caught and stuck on wire mesh lids, and tarantulas can chew through the wire mesh with their fangs. Along with such a horror-movie level of escape, the tarantula may harm itself attempting to pull itself through the hole it had created (via the sharp, warped wire mesh).

The Big Three (Enclosure Types)

There are three main types of tarantula enclosures. These are arboreal enclosures, terrestrial enclosures, and fossorial enclosures. Most tarantulas fall into one of the three setups of enclosures, and some specific species such as Pterinochilus murinus may fall in between certain categories.

Arboreal Enclosures

Arboreal enclosures are for tarantulas that require (or benefit from) extra height in their enclosure. These tarantulas must be housed in enclosures that are taller than they are long or wide. In addition, these tarantulas are the only known tarantulas that possess the ability to

Avicularia avicularia in a typical arboreal setup.

jump. In the wild, arboreal tarantulas will often leap between trees. There are several archetypes of arboreal tarantulas, being true arboreals, beneficial arboreals, and sub-arboreals. True arboreals require height in their enclosures to thrive. Beneficial arboreals will benefit from added height in their enclosures but may not necessarily go to the extent as true arboreals. Sub-arboreals are tarantulas that often excessively web, and therefore require a little extra space in height to effectively web. Many arboreal tarantulas will create elaborate above-ground web tunnels and will require things like hanging leaves and fake branches to use as anchor points for their webbing.  Below are some examples of each arboreal archetype (keep in mind this isn't all of them!)

True Arboreals

• Avicularia avicularia

• Avicularia juruensis

• Avicularia purpurea

• Caribena versicolor

• Typhochlaena seladonia

Beneficial Arboreals

• Poecilotheria metallica

• Poecilotheria regalis

• Poecilotheria rufilata

• Psalmopoeus irminia

• Psalmopoeus cambridgei

• Psalmopoeus victori

• Ybyrapora diversipes

Sub-Arboreals

• Pterinochilus murinus

Terrestrial Enclosures

Terrestrial enclosures are for tarantulas that mainly live on the ground. These tarantulas may or may not construct small burrows (not to the extent of Fossorials). This is by far the largest family of tarantula and includes some of the largest of tarantula species on Earth. These tarantulas will

Pamphobeteus sp. platyomma in a typical terrestrial setup.

require an enclosure longer and wider than it is tall. In addition, these tarantulas will require a hide along with plenty of substrate to burrow. Terrestrials are further subdivided into three archetypes that I have fittingly named. Behemoths are terrestrial tarantulas that as adults average over seven inches DLS for both males and females. Typicals are terrestrial tarantulas that as adults average between four and seven inches DLS for both males and females. Finally, Dwarfs are terrestrial tarantulas that as adults average less than four inches DLS for both sexes. It should be mentioned that dwarf tarantula is a broad label that encompasses all three living styles of tarantulas, but terrestrial dwarfs are the most common.  Below are some examples of each terrestrial archetype (keep in mind this isn't all of them!)

Behemoths (>7 Inches DLS)

• Theraphosa stirmi

• Theraphosa blondi

• Theraphosa apophysis

• Pamphobeteus antinous

• Pamphobeteus sp. machala

• Pamphobeteus sp. platyomma

• Lasiodora parahybana

Typicals (4-7 inches DLS)

• Phormictopus auratus

• Tlitocatl albopilosum

• Aphonopelma chalcodes

• Grammastola pulchra

• Grammastola rosea

• Brachypelma smithi

• Chromatapelma cyaneopubescens

Dwarfs (<4 inches DLS)

• Hapalopus sp. Colombia (both Klein and Gross variants)

• Davus pentaloris

• Neoholothele incei

• Cyriocosmus elegans

Fossorial Enclosures

Fossorial enclosures are for tarantulas that will spend most of their time underground. They will build an intricate system of heavily webbed tunnels, often with multiple entrances and exits. While some fossorials, namely the Ceratogyrus genus will require extra space on the surface to web; not all fossorial tarantulas will spend ample time above ground. These enclosures should be

Ceratogyrus darlingi standing next to her burrow entrance.

similar in proportions to arboreal enclosures, with more height than length or width. However, this extra height should be allocated to large amounts of substrate for the tarantula to burrow rather than hanging vines or cork bark tubes. Two main archetypes exist within fossorial tarantulas, which I have dubbed True Fossorials and Terrestrial-Fossorials. It is to note that both fossorial types will construct extensive burrows, and you should provide plenty of substrate to both, this classification mostly refers to their behavior and viewability. True Fossorials are fossorial tarantulas you will rarely see on the surface, (except at night or when they are hungry!) and Terrestrial-Fossorials you may see a decent bit hanging around on the surface. Below are some examples of each fossorial archetype (keep in mind this isn't all of them!).

True Fossorials

• Chilobrachys natanicharum

• Orphnaecus philippinus

Terrestrial-Fossorials

• Ceratogyrus darlingi

• Ceratogyrus marshalli

Enrichment Opportunities

All animals need opportunities for enrichment, and tarantulas are no different. While this differs on which living style a tarantula is a member of, most tarantula enrichment takes the form of webbing anchors. Webbing anchors are objects such as cork bark, moss, fake plants, and branches placed in an enclosure to give the spider places to connect webs. When set up correctly and with the appropriate enclosure/space, some heavy-webbing species of tarantula can make beautiful and intricate silk fortresses.

Tips!

• NEVER use decorations or enrichment pieces from outside your home for your enclosures. Unwanted bacteria or mites can hitch a ride on plants or sticks you collect from outside that can kill your tarantula. In addition, if your family or landlords spray for pesticides, these chemicals can be on the decorations which will kill your tarantula. If you are going to use outside objects, boil them in water to properly disinfect, though it is better to avoid it altogether.

Conclusion

Think you're ready to bring a tarantula into your home? Just don't know which species is right for you. There will be a new article soon on choosing your first tarantula, so be on the lookout for that! I hope this article was as informative as it was fun to write, and feel free to email me with any questions you may have.

Glossary

1 - "sling"

• A portmanteau of spider and the suffix "ling", which in English is a diminutive. In average, comprehendible, not-nerd speech, a spiderling or baby spider.

2 - "premolt"

• The stage in a tarantula's development prior to molting. This stage is characterized by a lack of appetite, plump and dull abdomen, and reclusiveness.

3 - "DLS"

• Acronym for, "Diagonal Leg Span." The most commonly used method for measuring tarantulas from the tip of the front legs to the tip of the back legs.